I don’t want to take away from the mass-produced three-flavored popcorn cans, but there’s an even more delicious popcorn that’s perfect for cozying up on the couch. It’s your own homemade popcorn with holiday spices, and it pairs exceptionally well with hot chocolate and marshmallows. This recipe uses common pantry spices, and if you’ve ever baked a pumpkin pie, I’m betting you already have them. Grab the nearest two-quart saucepan and let’s get popping.

Contrary to my strong feelings for great coffee, I am by no means a popcorn snob. I like it all: pre-packaged, microwaved, convection, or kettle-popped. Recently, despite vivid memories of hating the method, I have returned to classic stovetop popcorn. I don’t know what stopped me, because I really enjoy it. Not only does the sound of exploding kernels put a smile on my face every time, but there is also more freedom with regard to flavor. You can add hot or savory sauces to your dripping butter after the popcorn is done popping, or you can flavor the fat you use to warm the kernels. That’s exactly what we do with this recipe.

Add spices first to infuse them before adding the unpopped kernels to the fat in the pan. This is a technique common in Indian cooking called tadka (also tarka, chhonk, baghaar, and other names depending on the region, or sometimes called tempering spice). You add whole or ground spices to oil, or ghee, and allow it to warm and “bloom.” This can soften any overpowering notes in the raw spices and allow the flavors of the toasted spices to infuse into the oil. If you use whole spices, the larger pieces can be removed to leave a subtle, aromatic fat. Ground spices remain dispersed in the infused oil, creating a robust dish—in this case, popcorn.

To make a bowl of festive cheer, add the fats to a medium to large saucepan over low heat. You’ll notice that I use both butter and cooking oil in the recipe. I like the flavor of butter better than oil alone, but adding a dash of canola oil raises the smoke point so my butter doesn’t burn. You can also use ghee, which has a higher smoke point than butter. Add the salt and any other spices. Swirl the pan to moisten all the spices and cook over medium heat for 20 seconds to 1 minute, depending on how hot the oil gets. You’ll notice that the spices become quite fragrant and the butter may start to foam.